Flashback: Bukit Lawang – Welcome to the Jungle

Jette and a very old tree in the rainforest

Jette and a very old tree in the rainforest

From Medan, we took a minivan to Bukit Lawang, a small tourist village on the Bohorok River at the edge of Gunung Leuser National Park. Bukit Lawang has been a popular stop for tourists in Northern Sumatra for at least a couple of decades.

Bukit Lawang

Bukit Lawang

It’s a trekking base for those wanting to explore the rainforest of the park and see what’s left of the endangered Sumatran Orangutans at the nearby orangutan rehabilitation center. Bukit Lawang is set up 100% for tourists, but for a tourist trap, it’s a very laid back place. Locals say “hello” and “good morning” when they pass you on the trails and unlike most of Indonesia, there aren’t any aggressive touts. There are dozens of little guesthouses and restaurants, and each night as the sun goes down it is hard NOT to find a bunch of happy-go-lucky locals sharing a few beers and singing songs with the young backpackers who are the main visitors to the area. If you visit, I guarantee that you will hear the “Bukit Lawang Song” (aka the “Jungle Trek Song”) at least ten thousand times!

Bukit Lawang is inland, far from the coasts of Sumatra, so it was not affected by the 2004 earthquake and tsunami.


Ironically though, hundreds of people were killed and the village devastated by a flood in 2003. Here’s a photo and a snippet from a BBC news report at the time:

Bukit Lawang Flood

Another 100 people are missing after the disaster, which is thought to have been made worse by extensive logging removing cover that once retained rain.

The minister, Nabiel Makarim, blamed corrupt officials and business people for the practice.

The search for bodies continues around the worst-hit village of Bukit Lawang.

“These illegal loggers are like terrorists,” said Mr Makarim, after talks with the Indonesian President, Megawati Sukarnoputri, in Jakarta.

But he said: “It is difficult to combat illegal logging because we must face financial backers and their shameless protectors both from the Indonesian armed forces and police, and from other government agencies.”

Not only did the illegal logging exacerbate the flooding of the river by creating massive run-off, but there were also thousands of logs which came crashing downriver, smashing into homes and bridges, destroying much in their path. Horrible, but sadly, typical.

One of the reasons we came to Sumatra was to see firsthand the rainforest ecosystem, how people live with it, and the effects of man’s actions on it. In Singapore we choked on a smokey haze blowing over from the fires in Sumatra – fires which were started to clear land for palm oil plantations. On the drive from Medan to Bukit Lawang we saw, yet again, just how massive the palm oil plantations are and how little natural rainforest is left. In this area it was slashed and burned years ago and replaced with thousands and thousands of neat rows of oil palms, and in some cases, rubber trees. It would appear that about the only rainforest left in the area is the park itself.

When the rainforest is cleared, long drainage trenches are cut. This dries out the soil of the forest floor, killing or weakening the plants and making it easier to burn and clear the land. Once cleared, young oil palms are planted in neat rows between the trenches. They will mature and produce oil bearing fruit for about 30 years. Don’t ask what happens to the thousands of species of plants and animals that lived in the rainforest.

One of the old drainage trenches between the oil palm rows.

One of the old drainage trenches between the oil palm rows.

Endless rows of oil palms

Endless rows of oil palms

I won’t go on about deforestation and its effects here. Suffice it to say that it is shocking what has been lost, how much (and in some ways, how little) things have changed since I was last here 23 years ago. According to this recent study, primary forest has declined by 40% in the past twenty years and 92% of Sumatra has lost its virgin forest. Nothing good can come of this in the long run, and the local people have profited little from this great loss. Quite the contrary.

Anyway, we arrived in Bukit Lawang and checked into a nice little guesthouse along the river in the main part of the village. It was one of the cheaper places, but quite comfortable, and their little restaurant had great food. To Jette’s delight the family that owned the place had a couple of kids, and a new puppy.

Our little cabin

Our little cabin

Homework on the porch

Homework on the porch

Our home in Bukit Lawang

Our home in Bukit Lawang

Bruno - the guesthouse puppy

Bruno – the guesthouse puppy

I didn’t get any photos of them, but there were mischievous macaque monkeys around who would swing down from the surrounding trees and steal food and other things. One afternoon I was sitting on the porch reading. There was a plastic bag with some fruit sitting on the table in front of me. As I was reading, I saw a movement in my peripheral vision. I looked up from my book and there was a monkey hanging from the side of the building at the edge of the patio about 10 feet in front of me. We locked eyes for a moment and then he suddenly leapt from the wall to a nearby column and from the column to the edge of the table in front of me. Still making eye contact I leaned forward and hissed loudly, fully expecting to scare him away. Instead he opened his mouth and showed me his teeth, calmly reached over and lifted a star fruit from the bag on the table, and stuck it in his mouth. He paused for half a second to glare at me, then leaped back, bouncing off the column up to the wall, disappearing up and over the edge of the roof. One of the ladies that works at the guesthouse appeared with a slingshot and started shooting pebbles at the monkey, who was sitting at the peak of the roof enjoyed my fresh starfruit. Lesson learned. Stupid humans making hissing noises doesn’t frighten Sumatran monkeys. If anything it just amuses them.

Slingshot for chasing away mischevious monkeys

Slingshot for chasing away mischievous monkeys

The locals in the village told us that the orangutan rehabilitation center was now permanently closed. We asked why and were told that all of the orangutans had been “successfully rehabilitated” and so there was no longer a need for the center. Hmmmm… We booked an overnight “jungle trek” through our guesthouse. The next morning we threw a few things in a backpack and headed out with our guide. We walked through the village, along the river, and into the forest.

Beginning our trek

Beginning our trek

Welcome to the jungle

Welcome to the jungle

We followed narrow, but well traveled paths through the forest. It was quite hilly with some very steep and slippery sections. There was no technical climbing, but we were sometimes forced to climb or descend especially steep or muddy sections on all fours.

Full moon on this hill

Full moon on this hill

Over the mossy log

Over the mossy log

Up a muddy embankment

Up a muddy embankment

It was hot and so humid. We were sweating like crazy. As we hiked through some of the wet valley areas there were swarms of mosquitoes, but on the hilltops there were very few. There were some really fantastic, giant old trees, lots of vines that tempted me to play Tarzan, and some critters along the way.

Leaf skeleton

Leaf skeleton

A friendly turtle

A friendly turtle says, “Hey jerk, put me down!”

This is a "small" female ant. Only the big maies bite.

This is a “small” female ant. Only the big males bite.

Great old tree and vines

Great old tree and vines

Look at this twisty vine!

Look at this twisty vine!

Terminte mound

Termite mound

After a few hours, we stopped for a snack of fruit. It was quite a spread.

Fruit snack

Fruit snack

After the snack we pressed on, and came upon another lady and her guide feeding a Thomas Leaf Monkey, a species found only in Northern Sumatra.

Local guide feeding a Thomas Leaf Monkey

Local guide feeding a Thomas Leaf Monkey

Sadly, this was a scene that was to be repeated throughout the day. Now we understood why the guides had brought so much fruit – they were feeding the animals! Before we left on our trek we made very clear that while we were eager to see orangutan and other wildlife, we wanted to see them from a distance.  We did NOT want to get too close. Alas, that was not to be. We had read that some of the orangutans could be quite aggressive, particularly an adult female named Minah. Throughout the day we crossed paths with other groups and guides, and in every instance they were feeding the orangutan and monkeys. Quite clearly this was standard practice. The animals had learned that humans on the trail meant a yummy snack of fruit. They showed no fear of people, on the contrary, they approached people knowing full well that they would be rewarded with food. We can only assume that the rehabilitation center was closed so that the tourists could feed the animals on their “jungle treks.”  Yep, it appeared that we were now part of the problem.

Down the path

Down the path

One we went, and before long we saw our first orangutans, up towards the top of some nearby trees.

Seeing our first orangutans

Seeing our first orangutans

Orangutans in a tree. Can you see them up there?

Orangutans in a tree. Can you see them up there?

We hiked a bit more. We followed the trail up a hill and emerged into a small clearing at the top.  The trail continued on the other side of the clearing. Standing on the far side by the path was one of the orangutans, Minah, with a baby on her back. Another tourist and guide were standing in the clearing and the guide was getting fruit out of his bag to feed Minah. Our guide urged us closer, but we refused, reiterating that we did NOT want to get close to the animals, especially the orangutans, and we certainly didn’t want to feed them. He said that we had to go past her to follow the trail, and again we refused. Clearly frustrated with us, he had the second guide lead us down a smaller trail to the side of the clearing, allowing us to keep our distance from Minah.

Local guide feeding an orangutan

Local guide feeding Minah as we head for the side trail.

When he rejoined us down the trail, we told him again that we did NOT want to get close to the orangutans, and we questioned the wisdom of feeding them. He told us that they had to feed them, otherwise they will get aggressive, especially Minah. He showed us some fresh scars on his forearm and told us how, about 5 weeks ago he had encountered Minah on the trail. He was reaching into his bag to get some fruit for her, but apparently she got impatient, grabbed his arm, and bit it. He said that while he was punching her three other guides were able to pull him from her grasp. He seemed quite proud of this, and told us with a smile that the treks were boring if they didn’t see Minah, and that the local guides had a saying: “No Minah, no fun. No Minah, no run!” So much for rehabilitation, eh?

Going up...

Going up…

And up...

And up…

And down...

And down…

These guys can really climb

These guys can really climb

We hiked some more and again as we crested a hill, we crossed paths with another orangutan – one of Minah’s older children. Mila was a minute or so behind us, and I don’t think she realized that the orangutan was there as she came up the path.

Looking at Mila as she comes up the path

Looking at Mila as she comes up the path

Regardless, the guides led her behind the orangutan as one of them made an offering of fruit.

Too close for comfort

A little too close for comfort

We hiked on…

Jungle princess

Jungle princess

Go Mila!

Go Mila!

On one narrow, sloped section of trail we encountered Jackie, another orangutan.



Thankfully, that was our last encounter with orangutans. This was just too close, and the conditions too sad. We came to see and understand their plight, and ended up feeling like we were contributing to the problem. Guides feeding them for the entertainment of tourists simply seems to create dependencies and encourage interactions which are risky for both sides. On the other hand, without the tourist dollars and interest, I also wonder if they would still exist in this area at all. No doubt orangutans are beautiful creatures, but they face a dim future. Their habitat will continue to be destroyed and they will likely continue to be under threat. “Critically endangered” is not a good thing to be, and from what we saw, I doubt conditions will ever improve for our sad cousins the Sumatran Orangutans.

So, with those cheery thoughts, on with our story. We hiked on and before long the river came into view. Our campsite was on the bank of the river and other groups and guides were arriving too. Those who were not spending the night were wrapping their bags in plastic and getting into tubes to go back down river.

The river comes into view

The river comes into view

Our campsite

Our campsite

Tubin' Sumatra style

Tubin’ Sumatra style

While the guides prepared dinner, we cooled off in the river with a group of noisy French, Moroccans, and Algerians.

Time to swim

Time to swim



Our jungle bath complete, we dried off and went into our shelter for dinner. Jette was not feeling well. All of our bottled water was gone, and the guides were boiling and serving smokey tasting, slightly cloudy river water. Jette took a sip, but no more. She was exhausted and I think dehydrated. She didn’t want to eat, and laid down on her pallet. Mila and I ate a little bit and laid down too. We were tired and with Jette not feeling well, we wanted to keep a close eye on her. I talked for an hour or so with our guide then we all tried to sleep. The French group in the shelter next to us were sitting around a fire playing drinking games and singing. I tired to listen to the sound of the jungle, but they were drowned out by their shouts, songs and antics. This continued for almost SIX HOURS until the last couple of them stumbled off to bed around 3:30 a.m.

Extremely loud French drinking games

Extremely loud French drinking games

In the morning, Jette was feeling better. We had a good time watching the water monitors swim in the river, and troupes of monkeys along the banks. Some of the monkeys were quite aggressive and would come into camp to try and steal things. We had fun throwing rocks at them to scare them off. Of course we never hit them, but when a throw got close the monkeys would scamper away.

Feeling better

Feeling better

Morning hugs

Morning hugs

Throwing a rock at a monkey

Throwing a rock at a monkey

I don’t have photos as the camera was stuffed in a waterproof bag, but after a while it was time to pile into a raft made of inner tubes lashed together and float down the river and back to our guesthouse.

We spent another day in Bukit Lawang, and since we had been eating all of our meals and spending most of our time at our guesthouse, we walked a little further down the main path to explore a bit and had lunch at the Jungle Inn. The guys there were really nice, and it looks like it would be a fun place to stay too. They have one “cabin” that is two stories with a balcony overlooking a private waterfall. Nice.

Walking down to the Jungle Inn

Walking down to the Jungle Inn

In Bukit Lawang

In Bukit Lawang

Watermelon juice

Watermelon juice

On one of our days in Bukit Lawang, we walked from the main tourist area along the river, back through the palm oil plantations to the market area of the village. One day a week, Friday if I remember correctly, is market day and folks from all around come to stock up on what ever they might need – chickens, fish, produce, clothing, soap, you name it. Goods are laid out on the ground, or in simple stalls, and the sometimes muddy paths between them have a constant stream of local shoppers.

The weekly market at Bukit Lawang

The weekly market at Bukit Lawang

Bukit Lawang Market



At one end of the market, there is a large, open area that was filled with men making deals and large, rectangular bundles of what looked like big mushroom tops. The smell – a rancid, earthy, fermented odor – was intense.

Rubber market Bukit Lawang

Rubber Market Bukit Lawang

Every once in awhile a man would pull out a parang (machete), chop into a bundle and inspect it. We couldn’t figure out what these things were, and my gosh the smell! I walked over and asked one of the men, “Apa ini?” (“What is this?). “Karet” was his answer. Rubber. Of course! To harvest the natural latex sap from rubber trees, strips of bark are cut forming a channel, and half a coconut is hung to collect the latex sap which oozes out. These odd bundles of mushroom-shaped things, were the half-coconut shaped lumps of latex all pressed together! Recently, rubber prices have dropped by 50% so what was once profitable is now not so much. One of our taxi drivers started driving taxis because he could not longer make a living with rubber.

Here’s a video that shows the rubber tapping and processing as it is done in Thailand. At this market the raw rubber is just bundled and sold, presumably the later stages of processing are done elsewhere.

Alas it was time to move on, so from Bukit Lawang and took a minibus to Berastagi. But that’s another blog post…

On the road to Berastagi

On the road to Berastagi


Flashback: Cameron Highlands, Malaysia

Still playing catch-up, so this post is a “flashback” to more than a month ago and our visit to the Cameron Highlands area in Malaysia.

Tea plantation gymnastics

Tea plantation gymnastics

From Taman Negara, we took a “minibus” to the Cameron Highlands area in central Malaysia. It is mountainous, highlands area and the “breadbasket” of Malaysia. In colonial times it was a hill-station for the British ruling class – a cool retreat from the unending heat and humidity of Kuala Lumpur and Georgetown.  The British established tea plantations. It’s climate is excellent both for tea and other produce and it remains one of the most productive agricultural areas in Malaysia, with many vegetable farms, orchards, apiaries, and of course tea plantations. One of the most popular activities besides scenic walks through the tea plantations is picking strawberries. Yum!

There are a number of small towns or villages sprinkled through the area. Tanah Rata is the biggest and really the commercial center. All of the towns are a bit on the grungy side – they are working agricultural towns – and many of the smaller towns or villages are really nothing more than a collection of agricultural and industrial suppliers. The “supply chain” here is quite visible, in a way that you would never see in the West. The open storefronts have truck tires, pipes, concrete, gravel, lumber, and all kinds of supplies and equipment spilling out onto the street. The narrow roads are jammed not just with tour busses and cars, but also with giant, overloaded, under-maintained trucks and heavy equipment. As you drive through the mountain roads you see vast tea plantations, terraced vegetable farms, orchards, and miles and miles of plastic sheets in the form of greenhouses. In a couple of areas, there are quarries – whole mountainsides that have been blasted raw, and once pristine, now shockingly polluted lakes. You have the sense that the earth all around is being torn, ripped, and molded to man’s will in a fairly brutal way and you are right in the middle of the chaos. At the same time, there are many areas of untouched forest. From distance it is all quite beautiful. Up close sometimes less so.

There are four main ethnic groups in Malaysia: muslim Malays, Chinese, Indians, and the aboriginal people – called “Orang Asli.” The Orang Asli are jungle dwellers and the original inhabitants of the Malay Peninsula. Like many native peoples, they have fallen victim to conquering peoples and more recently, “modern” life. Here’s a snippet of Orang Asli history from Wikipedia:

Slave raids into Orang Asli settlements were also quite common feature back in the 18th and 19th centuries. These slave-raiders were mainly local Malays and Bataks, who considered the Orang Asli as ‘kafirs’, ‘non-humans’, ‘savages’ and ‘jungle-beasts. The modus operandi was basically to swoop down a settlement and then kill off all the adult men. Women and children were captured alive as they are ‘easier to tame.’ The captives Orang Asli slaves were sold off or given to local rulers and chieftains to gain their favour. Slaves trade soon developed and even continued into the present century despite the official abolition of all forms of slavery in 1884. The derogatory term “Sakai” is used to refer to the Orang Asli until the middle of the 20th century meant slave or dependent. 

Today, the forests that have housed and fed them for generations have largely been destroyed or repurposed, and they have been pushed to limited tracts of land and the margins of a new society.

When we looked for accommodation online we found a place called the Rain Forest Inn that had really good reviews. We booked it and it turned out to be a fantastic experience. It was started by two partners – an Orang Asli man named John and his Chinese friend. It is on Orang Asli lands, and is a series of mostly-traditional bamboo huts built on a hillside, next to a beautiful stream with a waterfall.

View across the valley at the base of the property

View across the valley at the base of the property

Our hut

Our hut

Testing the bed

Testing the bed

The stream

Exploring the stream

Navigating the rocks

Navigating the rocks

Up to the waterfall

Up to the waterfall

The lower falls

The lower falls

Bamboo pipes make for a fun shower in the stream

Bamboo pipes make for a fun shower in the stream

The lower part of the stream is wide and calm and feeds into a nearby creek

The lower part of the stream is wide and calm and feeds into a nearby creek

Exploring the adjoining creek

Exploring the adjoining creek

Muddy feet!

Muddy feet!

Hey! What's this?

Hey! What’s this?



We had lots of fun playing in the stream, exploring the creek, and climbing the waterfall – there’s a upper falls area with a small pool that is perfect for a relaxing soak. But watch out! The rocks are slippery. At dinner, we were treated to a big spread of traditional Orang Asli cooking. It was simple but very delicious and many of the things we ate were grown or gathered on the property.

Dinner being prepared

Dinner being prepared

The dining room

The dining room

Traditional dishes at dinner

Traditional dishes at dinner



That night Jette got really sick. She had a headache and was vomiting. After throwing up a few times she fell asleep. She slept through the night and in the morning she felt fine. We think it may have been something she ate at lunch, but we’re not sure. It could have been something at dinner, but no one else was sick, and we ate a similar dinner on our second night with no ill effects. Both Mila and Jette have had similar episodes a couple of times on our travels – a sudden headache followed by vomiting, then a quick recovery. We’re thinking that they are allergic or sensitive to some ingredient we have yet to identify, perhaps MSG. We’ve found that we all get headaches if there is too much MSG in our food. Luckily we’ve been very healthy overall and have managed to avoid the typical “travellers tummy” that has struck so many of our fellow travellers.

John, one of the owners of Rain Forest Inn, is quite a character and has interesting background. Unlike most Orang Asli, he is educated.  He studied mechanical engineering and joined the military. He was “Seal” in the Malaysian Special Forces and saw combat in places like the Philippines and Somalia. He lost part of one foot to a mine, and has a large, vertical scar down one cheek where a islamic extremist in the Southern Philippines stabbed him with a knife. After 15 years, he retired from the service and came back to his village. He spent a couple of years lobbying the local government to build a road to the village (it was a two-day walk to the nearest town). After he succeeded in getting the road built, he built a grocery store in the village. He had the idea for the guesthouse, and the Rain Forest Inn was born.

A traditional puzzle made from rattan

A traditional puzzle made from rattan and string

John showing us how to solve the puzzle

John showing us how to solve the puzzle

After breakfast one day, John and the village chief showed us how to make a variety of traditional snare traps, and also how to shoot a blowgun. The Orang Asli hunt and fight with blowguns and poison darts. Different poisons are used for hunting different animals (they eat everything, even the local monkeys) and there are special poisons for dispatching people. Firearms are not easy to get in Malaysia, so the Orang Asli still use blowguns for self-defense. Given John’s past line of work, he is very security conscious. I would hate to be the hapless criminal who happens to look for mischief in this village. Let’s just say that the Rain Forest Inn is a very safe place to stay, LOL.

Jette and the blowgun

Jette and the blowgun



At least I didn't swallow the dart!

At least I didn’t swallow the dart. Also, Look at how big I am compared to the village chief!

John and the village chief showing us how to make snare traps

John and the village chief showing us how to make snare traps

Detail of the snare on one of the traps. The rattan is actually quite stiff and has a sharp edge by design. It is connected to a small tree bent over as a powerful spring.

Detail of the snare on one of the traps. The rattan is actually quite stiff and has a sharp edge by design. It is connected to a small tree bent over as a powerful spring.

There is always time for a swing in a hammock

There is always time for a swing in a hammock

We did a day tour of the tea plantations and various sights around Cameron Highlands. My photos are rotten and really don’t do justice to the beautiful, undulating hills covered in tea bushes.

Tea bushes and the valley

Tea bushes and the valley

Climbing up to a scenic overlook

Climbing up to a scenic overlook

Walking through the BOH tea plantation

Walking through the BOH tea plantation

We also toured the BOH factory where tea is processed. To make black tea, the tea leaves are rolled, fermented, dried and sorted in a very simple process using equipment that dates back to 1928.

The BOH tea factory

The BOH tea factory



The sorting machine sorts leaves by size and drops them into large sacks.

The sorting machine sorts leaves by size and drops them into large sacks.

Different grades of tea

Different grades of tea

More tea bushes

More tea bushes

Note the people in the scene for scale

Note the people in the scene for scale

Am I really doing this?!

Am I really doing this?!

Pretty place for gymnastics

Pretty place for gymnastics

Beautiful views

Beautiful views

Visit to a bee farm

Visit to a bee farm

Loking for the queen in the hive

Looking for the queen in the hive

Hives on the hillside

Hives on the hillside

Photos in the shop

Photos in the shop



The highest view point in Cameron Highlands

The highest view point in Cameron Highlands

Climbing the rusty old tower

Climbing the rusty old tower

View from the tower

View from the tower

Jette with a kid at a local farm

Jette with a kid at a local farm

At a strawberry farm

At a strawberry farm

The guys working at this farm were from Bangladesh. They obviously get a lot of tourists, as they really had their schtick down. One of them insisted on taking photos of us, so Mila gave him her phone. He proceeded to pose Jette and snap some hilariously cheesy photos.

The crazy photo session begins

The crazy photo session begins. Note the pose and the strawberry in the foreground.

The photo

The resulting photo

It went on, and on. Mila and I were called in to pose too.

Clearly, this was our moment of glory.The bangladeshi with the camera wanted us to do more kissing and his pose suggestions got more and more “interesting.” I think he was trying to recreate Bollywood movie posters with posed gringos and fruit. We’d had enough and called it quits. We do have our limits.

All in all, our visit to Cameron Highlands was great. Staying at Rain Forest Inn and getting a peek into Orang Asli life was definitely the highlight.

Jungles, Volcanoes, Monkeys and Orangutans

The past month has been a whirlwind trip through Malaysia and Sumatra. We’ve visited the disappearing rainforests of both, trekked through the jungle, climbed an active volcano, met orangutans in the wild, and stayed on a beautiful island in a giant lake, in the crater of yet another volcano.

In Bukit Lawang

In Bukit Lawang, Sumatra, Indonesia.

Rainforest ants are BIG

Rainforest ants are BIG!

We promise we to blog about it soon, but not tonight.

Tonight we are back in Kuala Lumpur. It’s getting close to midnight and we have to be up before the sun tomorrow for a flight to SRI LANKA!

We promise more updates soon, but in the meantime here is a short video of our climb of Gunung Sibayak in Sumatra. I wish you could smell the sulphur and feel the heat. It was awesome!

Taman Negara National Park, Malaysia

We continue with a bit of internet luck, so another update! Today, we’re at Danau Toba (Lake Toba), a peaceful and absolutely beautiful natural lake surrounding a volcanic island, here in Sumatra. This post is about our trip to Taman Negara, Malaysia some weeks ago. Taman Negara National Park is one of the oldest rainforest ecosystems on earth. It is older than the Amazon.

Taman Negara Map

Before sunrise, we boarded a minivan in Kuala Lumpur with a small group of other travellers and drove a few hours to Kuala Tembeling jetty on the Sungai Pahang River. Kuala Tembeling was the transfer point where we all had to fill out paperwork for rainforest permits and board the longboat for a two and a half hour ride down the river to the park. The scene below is quite representative typical lack of order we have come to enjoy.


Queue? What queue?


We were sent across the street to a strangely empty building to pay for our park permits

There was a cafe a few feet from the ticketing area, ready to monopolize on all passing through the area. Jette enjoyed some of their noodle soup.


Tasty, but we think there was too much MSG in the food here.


Loooooong noodles


Local cats getting Jette’s attention


Waiting area


Welcome to the jungle

After some lunch, we walked another short distance down to the river to board our boat.


Boarding the boat


Away we go…


Blue skies & muddy waters


It was relaxing to be on a boat in these calm, if polluted, waters


The vegetation and puffy clouds were so nice


Muddy waters


Most travellers were couples; since we are 3, we were a bit squished in our seats


Our co-passengers were kind enough to get this shot of us on the boat

The area was quite peaceful and a welcome break away from the craziness and traffic in Kuala Lumpur.


Chocolate water

The ride was quite lovely and peaceful, but really cramped and we were all happy to “disembark” into this little floating restaurant cum information station.


So happy to be off the boat


This was poor Jette trying to catch some “zzz’s” on the boat just before we landed

Our guesthouse was a little out-of-the-way place called Park Lodge, run by a former park ranger with a vast knowledge of the population of rhinoceros. He and his brother were running a fledgling little place, while care-taking for their elderly mother.


Entry to Park Lodge

Our host gave us a warm welcome and walked us through his property, showing us an amazing variety of plants and trees that his mother had planted decades earlier.


Our host cutting open a cacao pod that had dropped


Excited to see the inside of a cacao pod for the first time


The source of all things chocolate


A pretty lemongrass plant


Mmmmmm, lemongrass…


Picking a kaffir lime leaf


Coconut palms everywhere


Another lovely little flowering plant


Partially constructed building being overtaken by the jungle on site


Our little cabin was through the left side door


Abandoned steps at Park Lodge

The beautiful environment next to the river involved a sweaty hike of a few kilometers into and back out of town up and down some pretty steep hills.


Walking into town


You’d get fit walking this every day


Most people had cars or scooters; we had our feet


A view of the countryside along our walk to town


Downhill from here


The road to town with a frozen treat to cool off


Hot sun, lush plants and lots and lots of trash


Getting lost in a little village


Walking down to dinner


Puffy clouds


This is a view from Taman Negara looking towards town


Floating restaurants on the river with Taman Negara about a minute boat ride just across the river


Another view from town down to the river


The floating restaurant dining choices were simple


Really simple


Walking home after dinner catching this sunset was great


Sun setting as we walked back to Park Lodge

The day we decided to explore Taman Negara started off great. We crossed the river and found the walkway in, crossing massive jungle vines along our way. The entrance to the Taman Negara national park is through a resort hotel called Mutiara.


Entry to the Mutiara resort property


More of the Mutiara property


Mutiara resort, simple, yet the most developed spot in town


Look at the scale of this vine!


Nice walkway path into the jungle


Always looking up


An oldie and a goodie


Such plant variety








We love these old roots

As we continued to walk and walk, we were having a great, carefree time (foreshadowing).


So much energy

It was hot, hot, hot and humid, humid, humid. We were sweaty within minutes, but the rainforest was so green, so lush and so beautiful. We continued on, admiring our green environment as we walked and walked and walked.


Notice anything besides the massive bamboo stand? Red faces and sweaty people.


Another bamboo stand that dwarfs mere humans


The path felt longer and longer


I offered to carry Waco’s heavy, heavy bag for a bit so he could stretch


Is there really a forest canopy walk somewhere around here?


Wait up, guys!


Oldest rainforest in the world


Intense sunlight filtering through




Jette taking the lead




The walkway system was extensive

Finally, finally, finally, we made it to the beginning of the forest canopy walkway. We had no idea that it would take us so long to get there. It was one of those instances where we had underestimated the power of the heat and humidity; the few kilometers to the walkway nearly depleted our energy. We were ecstatic to see the walkway.


We are delirious (and possibly have heat exhaustion)


So high up there


Woo hoo!


Worth the hike to get here


Construction details


Way way up


Hello up there


Skinny suspended path in the treetops


Please be careful!!!

The walkway is 45 meters high above the 130 million year old rainforest, and constructed quite simply. It’s actually several long sections of walkways that wind this way and that, under the jungle canopy for 510 meters. We took photos on several sections of the walkway while it swung and swayed. After we finished walking across, we decided that it would be fun to continue our hike up to the highest part of the rainforest, where we were told there was a nice viewing area. We were already hot, tired and thirsty, so what could possibly go wrong? 

On we journeyed, making a few friends along the way.


Mr. Snake


He/she was relaxing on a stair railing


Mr./Mrs. Spider

We also found mass groups of ants that we could hear as they crunched and worked.


We walked and walked seeing some signs here and there to help us navigate a bit. The quality of way-finding signage varies greatly from country to country and place to place. Let’s just say that we have a bit of constructive criticism for Taman Negara in this regard.


Leaving the shade for intense sun


Admiring huge vines


Impressive old trees


Yes, there were signs


We were happiest to see this one back to “town” just 600 meters


Note the handwritten distance


Hmmm, 1km or are there some missing zeros?


If the trail is missing, does it count in the km hiked?


This one isn’t completely obscured by foliage


Watch out for missing handrails!


Fallen tree? Just chainsaw a hunk out of it and move along


We had to sit down several times on our hike up to the viewing area


More stairs

But, after several hours and bucketfuls of sweat (and one poor tired girl on the verge of tears), we made it.




Can we please get some water now?


Fluffy clouds and green mountains


Another vista

We were all so happy to have made it. We were all also dehydrated and tired and hot and oh, so sweaty. Have I mentioned we were sweaty? The only thing we could think of was water. Precious water. We had run out of water hours into our foray and desperately needed more. We got downhill as fast as we could with the little energy we had left. We made a beeline for the Mutiara Hotel Restaurant that was conveniently located adjacent to the National Park.

We had been to the restaurant on another occasion and others in town. They all seemed to share one characteristic, sloth-like service. We decided that slow service was just something to chalk up to cultural differences and had accrued patience points for dealing with it. But today was different. Today, we needed water and we needed it now.

We must have looked pretty rough when we made our way into the poshest place around for miles. Rather than the usual calm, collected game of waiting for someone to bring us menus, we sat down and immediately gave hand gestures and motions to the group of disinterested waiters and busboys standing around chatting. We need water (pouring water hand signs), water please (drinking out of a pretend glass), water (more gestures). To our surprise, we received action!

Oh, you precious glass of ice, cold life-giving water. We love you so so much.


This young lady is a tough sweetie!


Jette enjoyed a “fancy” re-energyzing salmon lunch after hydrating


We love the round banana leaf plating aesthetic at Mutiara’s restaurant


Mutiara resort restaurant

The jungle is not to be underestimated; it will zap every ounce of energy and moisture from your body. We all recovered just fine, and walked back to our little cabin for a restful sleep that night.

Jette was wanting more though, so on our last day, we walked a different direction, to a calm, little swimming spot.


Willing to hike again if it means swimming, too!






Getting toes nibbled by fish




Pure nature (and some litter of course)

This was such a picturesque spot and we’re really glad we made the effort to see it. We arrived in the late afternoon, enjoyed dusk here and then a very dark, early evening walk back through the jungle, just coming to life with nocturnal sounds and sights. A beautiful bat made his way across our path; he was illuminated by our phone light as he flew in and out of a hollowed log. We stood still in the darkness for a while to observe and reflect how very far and away from home we were.

Our final treat of the evening came in the form of a tapir that wandered up to the Mutiara Resort’s restaurant, where we had decided to have dinner again. When the restaurant manager saw the tapir, he brought out watermelon rinds and other fruit peelings for him. The vegetarian tapir was happy and so were all of the restaurant guests who came out with their cameras and snapped away as the tapir feasted. We were thrilled to be able to see the beautiful animal, but of course, saddened simultaneously. The fact that this tapir was dependent upon the food provided by the restaurant could only mean he does not have enough food in the remaining bit of his natural jungle, or that he has lost the ability to forage for his own sustenance. It possibly means some combination of both; either way, it is disheartening, indeed.


This dinner was happily interrupted by a tapir


This curry was really good, but checking out a giant tapir was better


Well, hello there


I think I’ll wander a bit


Jette thought the tapir was “adorable”

The next morning, we were back on the road, passing through Kuala Tembeling and its MSG-packed cafe.

Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia

Hi again! We’re still in Berastagi, Indonesia. We decided to stay in this little town for two extra days to utilize our hosts’ WiFi for photo uploads. The process has taken many, many, many hours and has been interrupted repeatedly with power outages (typical in Indonesia, so we were told). But, we’re happy to finally be able to share a bit from our time in Kuala Lumpur.

We arrived Kuala Lumpur (KL) in early January, withdrew some Malaysian ringgit (aka plastic money) and jumped into a taxi directly to our hotel.

Malaysian Ringgit is made of plastic. Note the clear windows at the top of the bills.

Malaysian Ringgit is made of plastic. Note the clear windows at the top of the bills.

The drive into town was eye-opening. Really, the shock started in the air, as we descended low enough to see what appeared like the entire country covered in palm oil plantations as far as the eye could see. From the property boundary of the airport, all the way to the beginning of commercially booming KL, it was the same fields of green oil palms as far as we could see. On the one hand, it was lovely to see the lush vegetation, but we know the deeper story about palm oil. Without getting too political or preachy, our family has chosen to avoid packaged products whose ingredients include palm oil and it’s not easy. Nearly 60% of packaged crackers, cookies, cereals, etc. contain palm oil, sometimes misleadingly and innocently labelled “vegetable oil”. Palm oil plantations are responsible for a very long list of global issues. Not only is palm oil not a healthy oil, but the manner in which the plantations soils have to be prepared is criminal. We’ve all heard about the haze in Southeast Asia and the draining/burning of centuries old rainforest peat soils is the culprit. The smoke from burning rainforest lands has affected us personally while we were in Singapore. Our week in Singapore included daily headaches, fits of coughing and the necessity of face masks to block some of the smoke. I got a bit sick and that was during just one week of exposure. The people who have no choice but to live where fires burn for months on end suffer a plethora of medical conditions as a result. Further, hundreds, maybe thousands of species of birds, mammals and plants have become (or will soon be) threatened due to the damage to the ecosystems from palm oil plantations. The tree canopy and fertile, rich soil that provided habitats and food have disappeared. Palm oil plantations provide sustenance for a teeny tiny percentage of all original rainforest life. Ok, so, please get informed & avoid palm oil, if possible. We’re certainly not perfect global citizens, but this is one issue we experienced ourselves and wanted to share. Getting off my soapbox now.


We chose a large-ish hotel in KL with a swimming pool so that Jette could have a fun place to cool off since the climate is so hot and sticky. We checked into a large room whereupon Jette decided she finally had enough space to do some gymnastics.


Gorgeous backlit onyx concierge area at our hotel

IMG_20160105_105344blurry gymnastics

The view out of our room’s window was quite telling. You could see almost step-by-step how the city was being transformed. Blocks of small independently owned properties were being slowly demolished to make way for large hotels and office buildings. There was a construction project adjacent to our hotel and we could watch the laborers each day. We remarked that large buildings still used very basic labor. That is not always the case, but we did observe concrete being poured by the bucketful on several different properties.


New building being erected as seen from our hotel room


Another view from our room. Notice how the “airy courtyards” of the buildings in the middle of the photo have been filled in!

Once we were settled, we took a stroll in the neighborhood to check things out. We ended up having a pretty decent lunch at a pretty nice sidewalk cafe and explored, yes, another mall. This one left us unimpressed.


First meal in Malaysia did not disappoint



The next evening, we had dinner at Wong Ah Wah in KL’s Chinatown, known for their chicken wings. Jette ordered a lime juice which is usually fresh lime, water, a bit of sugar and ice. This time, it was quite different. This restaurant added salt and a pickled plum. Holy wow. This was a VERY strong taste! We all dutifully sampled it, but cannot say it went further than that.


Ready for dinner at Wong Ah Wah


“Famous” chicken wings


Ready for dinner


Salted pickled plum lime juice


Reaction to sampling the lime juice and passing the plum


Not my favorite


Jette had a similar reaction


And there goes the plum


Waco and Jette as we make our way home from KL’s Chinatown

One day, it poured buckets of rain on us while we were out and about. We took shelter in a covered walkway bridge for a while.


Waiting for the rain to end

We did have a great time at the 20+ acre, free flight Kuala Lumpur Bird Park. There were some fabulous exotic birds and we caught a show with some trained birds.


Strolling in the Bird Park


A pretty bridge with flamingos


A bit of rain provided this pretty, misty view for us


Love this guy’s face


Having fun


Organized group


Birds, everywhere!


Chickens, too


Feeding ducks after the bird show


This one was quite spectacular


Duck feeding chaos


Funny face


Can’t ignore this Muslim mode of dress in the extreme KL heat and humidity


This guy was entertaining


Gazing at all the fishies


Where’s Waldo?

The Bird Park had a lovely restaurant in a gorgeous setting, so we had lunch there after our walk.


A beautiful hornbill landed right next to us


Amazing hornbill


Posed? No, this just “happened”

We saw these signs everywhere throughout KL. Apparently, purse-swipe crime is a big enough issue to warrant these types of warnings. Even though we did not have any issues, downtown KL is not a place I would feel comfortable walking around by myself late at night.


Thanks for keeping us alert, KL



Intuition plays a significant role in our daily lives, and even more so on our travels to new places. We rely on our sensibilities and if a situation, place or person doesn’t seem quite right, we “go with our gut” and usually move along. After several “sketchy” circumstances, and some odd characters, the three of us decided that the downtown KL neighborhood we were staying in was not for us. We decided to spend more time in KL, but chose to move to a different neighborhood.

We moved to an apartment in the Bangsar neighborhood. Bangsar is known as an affluent area with some diverse food options, good cafes, and a more relaxed sensibility. We found all of those descriptions to be quite true. We feasted on comfort foods, fancy lattes (as I’ve started to call them), and even did some fresh fruit and vegetable shopping at the local grocery. We stayed directly across the street from a mosque and were awoken at 5am each morning with the first call to prayer. That part wasn’t our idea of a good time, but it was certainly a common, real life experience for us in KL, the city we had come to explore.


The mosque responsible for our groggy mornings


The graffiti in Bangsar was quite artistic


One of my favorite pieces of street art

Several times, we commented that the neighborhood reminded us of Los Angeles. The scale, street parking and palm trees all contribute to the similar feel of the both. Bangsar was a comfortable and “just enough”. Just different enough, yet familiar enough for us to feel really happy being there.


Cute sidewalk cafe


The Los Angeles of Malaysia?


Check out this local girl in her new Ray Bans! L.A. or Bangsar?


Taking a stroll


I thought these woven bamboo pineapples were spectacular


Our favorite breakfast spot, Ted Boy


Jette in “comfort-food heaven”


So happy to be in air conditioning in a cafe with baked treats


A slice of Ted Boy’s cheesecake


Ted Boy was the perfect place to work on some math


Full of coffee (me) and baked treats (both of us!)

Bangsar even had a Mexican restaurant. We had dinner there one night. Jette ate a HUGE plate of cheesy nachos (and nothing else the next day).


Oh, nachos, how I love thee


Jette thought these tiny Mexican pottery pitchers were cute


Acme South restaurant was a terrific fusion restaurant


Acme South’s incredible garlic wedge fries

There were two really excellent “banana leaf” restaurants in the Bangsar area. One was Raj’s Banana Leaf and the other was Devi’s Corner. They both serve small portions of vegetables on, you guessed it, a banana leaf. They pile on some rice and there are optional meat dishes too. The idea is to eat with your right hand. It’s fun, messy and delicious!


Raj’s Banana Leaf Restaurant

Devi's Corner Restaurant

Devi’s Corner Restaurant


Jette’s fresh banana leaf just before we are served lunch

waiting for rice before digging in

Waiting for my rice before digging in


We love banana leaf restaurants!


Not sure how this looks to you, but it was SO GOOD


Waco enjoying his lunch


Almost gone…


Jette’s perfected three-finger technique

Banana leaf restaurants will continue to bring more rice and vegetables until a diner is satisfied. The way to properly indicate that you do not care for more servings is to fold your banana leaf over.


Proper etiquette

After almost a week in KL, we made arrangements to travel to Taman Negara National Park, the oldest rainforest in the world, at 130 million years.


Jette, waiting for our minivan to Teman Negara just before sunrise