Hola Ciudad de Mexico!

Hola Ciudad de Mexico!

On June 3rd. we flew from Bogota to Mexico City. We’ll be spending our last month of Field Trip X here in Mexico City (a.k.a. CDMX). We can’t believe that it is almost over. These eleven months have flown by so quickly. We’ve definitely been having fun!

The flight from Bogota to Mexico City is a short one, just under five hours, so it should have been an easy trip. It ended up being an expensive overnight adventure…

Our flight was scheduled to depart at 5:30 PM, so we got to the airport in Bogota at about 3:00 PM. We made our way to the Interjet check in desks and found them completely unstaffed. There were no passengers lined up to check in, just empty desks and an empty waiting area. Not good. We looked around and saw a sign for an Interjet office. We walked over to the office and asked about checking in for the 5:30 flight to Mexico City. The woman behind the desk looked very confused and asked, “Which flight?” Uh-oh. I pulled out my phone and started searching my email for the confirmation with the flight number and time. I found it almost immediately and realized that the flight time was 15:30 NOT 5:30!!

In a year of travelling, we had just missed our first flight. Estupido! For days we had been planning our departure and talking about what time to check our of our apartment, what time to get to the airport. We had misread the time and never double checked it. We had planned and executed everything flawlessly – at the wrong time!

We asked the nice lady behind the desk what our options were. She looked at us blankly and essentially said, “You missed the flight.”  I opened Google Translate on my phone and typed in a sentence asking if we could use our tickets on another flight. “Nope.” I typed another sentence asking about a credit or a partial credit. “Nope.”

OK. so, $657 down the drain. Poor reading comprehension can be very expensive.

We enquired as to our options on other flights and we could fly out on the 15:30 flight the next day for $657 or the 0:45 (12:45 AM) flight that night for $800. Ugh. Poor reading comprehension can be very, very expensive. I asked her if she had room for all three of us at her house and if she would sponsor us for a visa, since it looked like we would be staying in Colombia. She smiled and laughed, but said, “No.”

We retreated to the airport lobby to talk about what to do. First we checked online for other ticket options. Interjet was still the cheapest. Ugh. Our apartment in Mexico City was already booked and paid for, so changing destinations didn’t make sense. We were at the airport, so an Uber or a taxi back into town to find a hotel for one night, a couple of meals, and then a taxi back to the airport the next day didn’t make much sense either. It would be cheaper than the midnight-forty-five flight, but not by much.  So, we spent nine hours at the airport, caught the red-eye, and landed in Mexico City at about 5:30 the next morning.

On the midnight-forty-five red eye to Mexico City.

On the midnight-forty-five red eye to Mexico City.

Good morning sleepy!

Good morning sleepy!

The flight attendants on our flight didn’t give us the entry forms required by Mexico, so when we disembarked and entered the Immigration area we were empty handed. At the entrance to the Immigration area there were big tables and pens for filling out the forms, but there were no forms. Bienvenidos a Mexico! 

From Immigration, we headed to baggage claim. We had our suitcase, our duffel bag, and a cardboard box. The box was sealed with packing tape and completely wrapped in plastic. Emphasis on was. The box had been cut open and not resealed. All of our stuff in the duffel was packed neatly in zippered packing cubes. Again, emphasis on was. The packing cubes had been opened and all our belongings dumped out, rifled through, then crammed loose back into the duffel bag. Bienvenidos a Mexico!

I think the Mexico City airport is the only airport in the world that doesn’t allow the use of luggage carts. Actually that’s not true, they do have luggage carts at the baggage claim and you can put you bags on them and wheel them to the Customs area 30 meters away. But that’s all. When you exit Customs you must leave the carts there. In the airport terminal there are NO CARTS ALLOWED! You must carry your luggage the 12 km through the terminal to the airport exit! We figured it was a rule designed to create business for the luggage porters. But there were NO luggage porters. Not a single one. Bienvenidos a Mexico!

On our way out of the terminal I bought a local SIM card for my phone, so that we could have phone and internet service. I won’t describe the hilariously challenging activation process other than to say that activating the connection required that I already have a connection. Bienvenidos a Mexico!

Not exactly the smoothest leg of our journey, but this stuff can’t cramp our style! 😉

We caught an Uber from the airport to the apartment we rented in the Roma Norte neighborhood of Mexico City.

Our apartment building in Roma Norte, Mexico City.

Our apartment building in Roma Norte, Mexico City. We’re on the left side, 8th floor.

Then we headed out to explore the neighborhood and find some breakfast. Roma Norte is a trendy neighborhood full of cafes, boutiques, parks, markets and leafy, tree-lined streets. We found breakfast just a block or so away at a cafe called Buna 42.

Breakfast at Buna

Breakfast on the sidewalk at Buna 42

Huevos rancheros

Huevos rancheros

Scrambled eggs and beans

Scrambled eggs and beans

We spent the afternoon and the following couple days exploring the neighborhoods of Roma Norte, Roma Sur, Polanco, and beyond. The food has been great (I think I’ve gained ten pounds!), the people friendly, the weather fantastic, and the city fun to explore.

Here are some snapshots to give you a peek at our first few days in CDMX:

El Lugarcito

El Lugarcito

Delicious fish tacos at El Lugarcito

Delicious fish tacos at El Lugarcito

Yum, yum, yum...

Yum, yum, yum…

Japanese grocery store

Japanese grocery store

Vinyl wall art shop

Vinyl wall art shop

CDMX bike share bicycles.

CDMX bike share bicycles.

Street art

Street art

More bikes.

More bikes.

Statue in Plaza Rio de Janeiro Park.

Statue in Plaza Rio de Janeiro Park.

Good doggies!

Good doggies!

Cacti in the park.

Cacti in the park.

Typical corner in the hood

Typical corner in the hood

Panaderia Rosetta

Panaderia Rosetta

Panaderia Rosetta is a yummy breakfast spot.

Panaderia Rosetta is a yummy breakfast spot.

Chorizo con queso sandwich.

Chorizo con queso sandwich.

A fun vintage shop.

A fun vintage shop.

Hanging out at the record store.

Hanging out at the record store.

Street tacos!

Street tacos!

Taco stand from the back

Taco stand from the other side of the street.

This looks like a nice sidewalk cafe. Let's stop and do some work.

This looks like a nice sidewalk cafe. Let’s stop and do some work.

Tea please.

Tea please.

Sampling dad's green juice

Sampling dad’s green juice

Working hard

Working hard

Pardon me, but do you happen to have any Gray Poupon?

Pardon me, but do you happen to have any Gray Poupon?

Grand old buildings and lots of graffiti.

Grand old buildings and lots of graffiti.

More modest but colorful.

More modest but colorful.

An old sign with character.

An old sign with character.

Parque Mexico

Parque Mexico

Parque Mexico.

Parque Mexico.

There are lots of pretty parks and many of them have exercise equipment that is very well used. People here seem to be fitness crazy. Jette loves working out on the equipment in the parks.

We're here to pump you up!

We’re here to pump you up!

Leg raises.

Leg raises.

Bench press, not so much...

Bench press, not so much…

OK maybe she can do it

OK maybe she can do it

Walking along Ave. Amsterdam.

Walking along Ave. Amsterdam.

CDMX colors.

CDMX colors.

A local bakery.

A local bakery.

Street art

Street art

Street art.

Street art.

Shady sidewalks.

Shady sidewalks.

Chopper!

Chopper!

Pink and blue

Pink and blue

Old and new.

Old and new.

A pretty sidewalk patio

A pretty sidewalk patio

The scene across the street.

The scene across the street.

I scream, you scream, we all scream for helado!

I scream, you scream, we all scream for helado!

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Home.

Home.

The front door of our apartment faces an interior courtyard.

The front door of our apartment faces an interior courtyard.

We settled in quickly and after just a couple of days we were starting to feel like locals. Good thing, because on Tuesday Jette’s grandma flew down to visit us for a week!

Meeting Grandma at the airport.

Meeting Grandma at the airport.

Since her arrival we’ve been having fun…but that’s the next blog post!

Back to Amsterdam

With our “Rhine from source to sea” trip officially complete, we still needed to get back to Amsterdam, so this morning we got up, had a big breakfast at the hotel, packed our bikes again and hit the road. The plan was to ride to The Hague (Den Haag) and catch a train to Amsterdam.

Ready to roll

Ready to roll

We took a route that followed a long bike trail all along the coast, hugging the beach and this turned out to be another really nice ride and one of our favorite days on the bikes, simply because the landscape was once again surprisingly beautiful. The past few days in the Netherlands have been such a pleasant surprise and really a highlight of the trip.

Yesterday as we rolled into Hook of Holland, we saw a playground that looked like a good one (we are in the Netherlands after all!) and I promised Jette we could stop there today. So, on our way out of town we took a very slight detour and stopped at the playground, which was tucked into the landscape between the edge of town and the beach.

Walking down to the playground

Walking down to the playground

It is frustrating as our photos don’t even begin to capture the subtle beauty of the landscape.  In addition the the typical playground equipment, this park also features a long zip line tucked down in a small, green crevasse. The whole park is full of lush grasses and small wildflowers that dance in the wind and almost glow in the sunlight filtering through the clouds. To the eye, there is a most beautiful and subtle variation of color, texture, and motion that is totally lost to the camera, at least in our quick snapshots.

Diverse and beautiful landscape

Diverse and beautiful landscape

View towards the ocean

View towards the ocean

A little black cat hunting in meadow

A little black cat hunting in meadow

Anyway, we parked our bikes and walked down the little, winding footpath to the zip line and had some fun on the zip line and the other playground equipment.

Little gymnast

Little gymnast

Will the big kid break it?

Will the big kid break it?

Zippy

We hopped back on our bikes and rode along the same path that we took yesterday to get to the beach. As we reached the dunes along the edge of the beach, we turned right onto a path that runs along the beach, and goes all the way up the coast to Den Haag.

Back towards the beach

Back towards the beach

Our route was North and little bit East which meant that the strong southwesterly wind coming off the North Sea was an almost perfect tailwind for much of the day. That made pedaling easy and was certainly a welcome treat after battling the headwinds yesterday!

As we rode North, we sometimes the path ran right along the top of the dunes at the edge of the beach. At other times we curved inland, up and down along dykes, with the dunes and the beach to our left.

Hurry up dad!

Hurry up dad!

Pretty colors in the landscape

Pretty colors in the landscape

In a couple of places we passed huge complexes of greenhouses.

Sunlight reflecting on the roofs of the grreenhouses

Sunlight reflecting on the roofs of the grreenhouses

Along the dykes, everything was green and spotted with windflowers. Among the dunes, the grasses were taller and more heavily textured, and the colors of the plants shifted to a softer green and picked up the creamy yellows of the sandy dunes and the beach.

Sea grasses

Sea grasses

Amazing light, colors and textures

Amazing light, colors and textures

Dancing in the wind

Dancing in the wind

At De Zandmotor we took a break and walked down to the beach. De Zandmotor is a massive coastal protection project where they have dredged sand from the sea bottom and deposited it at the shore. They have constructed a giant penninusula that is  1km by 2km and over time, the winds and tides of nature will shift the sand along the coast, incorporating it into the existing dunes and beach, making them bigger and providing more protection. They call it “building with nature.”

Reading about the Sand Motor

Reading about the Sand Motor

Views at high and low tide

Views at high and low tide

Warning

Warning

Walking down to the beach

Walking down to the beach

The dredged sand is full of tiny shells

The dredged sand is full of tiny shells

Handstands and a double horizon

Handstands and a double horizon

Mila at the water's edge

Mila at the water’s edge

At the water's edge

At the water’s edge

We hopped back on our bikes and before long we were in Den Haag where we headed to the central station and bought tickets for Amsterdam. Fifteen minutes later we were on the train with our bikes, and an hour or so after that we rolling our bikes off the train at Amsterdam Centraal. We hopped on our bikes and once again rode to Camping Zeeburg and pitched our tent.

At the Den Haag train station

At the Den Haag train station

Looking down on Camping Zeeburg

Back in Amsterdam and looking down at Camping Zeeburg

Up goes the tent

Up goes the tent – for the last time on this trip!

Day 23: Rhenen to the North Sea – We made it!

Today we took a couple trains and we rode 46.44 km.

This is it! This is the day we made it to the North Sea, the mouth of the Rhine.

We call this “the day that would not end.” It was a great day, and a very, very long day.
This will probably be a long post!

We awoke to a wet and misty morning. Before I loaded my bike, I laid it on its side, removed the new bellcrank and squirted about a half bottle of Finish Line Wet Cross Country chain lube (which is really a good quality, high-viscosity synthetic oil) into the hub. I don’t think I mentioned it in yesterday’s post, but with the hills around Arnhem and the weight I’m carrying I’ve pushed the hub to its very limits yet again. I got the brakes so hot on one of the downhills that I burned out the remaining grease. There is a good likelihood that there were/are some metal fragments floating around in there too, as not only were the brakes “screaming” when engaged, the hub was making squealing noises when I pedaled and even when I coasted. This is how it sounded as we rolled into Rhenen last night:

Before we checked into the hotel, we stopped at a local bike shop to see if they had any of the special Shimano grease for the Nexus hubs. They did not. I intended to take a couple tubes with me from the beginning, but I have yet to find a bike shop in the Netherlands, Germany or Switzerland that would sell me a tube! Some of the bike shops had their own stash for their shops, but they wouldn’t sell me one. When I had the rear tire replaced in Koblenz I bought the bottle of the Finish Line lube as a substitute, “just in case.” I’m glad I did, because it worked. This morning before we started off, I put about half the bottle in the hub with the hope that it would flush out any metal fragments and also seep through to the brake shoes and give them some much needed lubrication. It did. As we rode into town to find breakfast, the hub was quiet and smooth as were the brakes. Nice!

We stopped for breakfast at a cute bakery and enjoyed some hot tea and pastries. I had a delicious apple pastry. It was so good we got two more for the road.

Our breakfast stop

Our breakfast stop

Cute spot

Cute spot

Tea

Tea

As we were eating, we looked at the weather forecast and the calendar. The forecast was for rain today and the next couple days. Mila and Jette were not keen on riding in the cold rain, but there was no way we could make it to the North Sea if we took any more rain days. We were simply too slow for the days we have remaining. After some debate, we agreed reluctantly that if we were to hit the finish line by bike we would have to take another train. The plan was to train to Rotterdam and ride the final 40k or so to the Hook of Holland and the coast of North Sea. So, we packed our delicious apple pastries, hopped on our bikes and started riding toward the train station. The mist of the morning had turned to rain. A slow, cold, steady rain.

At the Rhenen train station

At the Rhenen train station

There was no ticket agent and the station, only a ticket machine. To get to Rotterdam from Rhenen the trains went through Utrecht. There was a train at the station, and we couldn’t figure out how to buy passes on the bicycles on the ticket machine, so we just bought three tickets for Rotterdam and jumped on the train. Once again it was a local train that allowed us to roll the bikes on fully loaded. So easy and so nice!

On the train the Utrecht

On the train the Utrecht

The wet green landscape out the window

The wet green landscape out the window

 

Bike parking at one of the little stations along the way

Bike parking at one of the little stations along the way

It wasn’t long before we arrived in Utrecht where we rolled the bikes off the train, and headed for the ticket office there.

Elevator in Utrecht station

Elevator in Utrecht station

I told the ticket agent that I’d purchased three tickets to Rotterdam using the machine in Rhenen but that I couldn’t figure out how to purchase the bike passes. She was super-friendly and asked to see our tickets (actually “OV chipcards”). I gave them to her and she immediately saw that we had purchased an adult fare for Jette. She looked Jette in the eye and asked her how old she was.

Jette said, “Ten.”

“Oh,” the ticket agent said with a smile.  “Then you have overpaid. I owe you some money.”

She proceeded to count out 14 Euros and give them to Jette, who smiled and said, “Thank you!”

This lady made our day. A smile and positive attitude makes such a difference and this nice lady went above and beyond.

Tickets and bike passes in hand, we rolled our bikes to platform 8 and a few minutes later, onto the train to Rotterdam.

Bikes crammed into the train

Bikes crammed into the train

At 11:37 we rolled the bikes off the train at Rotterdam Central Station.

On the platform in Rotterdam

On the platform in Rotterdam

Station Exit

Station Exit

Leaving the Rotterdam Station

Leaving the Rotterdam Station

In Rotterdam we had sunny skies! Yay!

We rode through Rotterdam, winding through the city.

When we saw this cute frites stand, of course we had to stop and sample their wares.

Frites!

Frites!

Pomms

Pomms

We rode on until we reconnected with the river. When we did, we stopped at an old marina to snap a few photos.

Quick stop at an old marina

Quick stop at an old marina

We were very luck and spotted the rare and elusive Rotterdam Monkey.

Rotterdam monkey

Rotterdam monkey

Route through Rotterdam

Route through Rotterdam

From here on, the route runs along the North shore of the river, all the way to the Hook of Holland and the North Sea.

An old windmill in the middle of the city

An old windmill in the middle of the city

Somewhere in the outer ‘burbs of Rotterdam, Mila thought her rear tire was losing air. We stopped, I pulled the hand pump out of the trailer and pumped it up. This was the first time we had topped-up her tires on the whole trip!

Tire inflated

Tire inflated

In the outer burbs, we passed a giant shopping center and really started to feel the wind from the North Sea, which would turn out to be a brutal headwind for the rest of the day.

We rode through a couple cute little towns, some very industrial areas, and then the route curved down, right along the shore of the Rhine.

We were only about 15 km from the Hook of Holland but this is where the day would begin to feel like it would never, ever end. We rode and we rode and we rode and sometimes it seemed like we were getting farther and farther from the North Sea. Was that powerful wind blowing us backwards?! It sure felt like it!

On the left side we had the Rhine and on the right the industrial areas gave way to a long, beautiful park, green with grassy lawns and forested areas.

The path and the park

The path and the park

Giant Windmills

Giant Windmills

There were giant windmills, huge cranes, big smokestacks and of course big ships – all the things you would expect to see along the biggest port in Europe. For 40 years, Rotterdam was the busiest port in the world. In recent years Singapore and Shanghai and other ports have surpassed it in shipping volume.

We came upon a section of the river where there was a massive sand bar that formed a sort of “beach.” With the sun to the West, we could see trails of footprints snaking out across the sand. It was enticing and we stopped for a few minutes so Jette could go down and explore.

The sandy beach

The sandy beach

Jette climbing back up

Jette climbing back up

On we go

On we go

Against the wind

Against the wind

Water break

Water break

As we approached the Hook of Holland, we came up onto the dykes and rode past large floodgates and water control facilities.

Approaching Hook of Holland

Approaching Hook of Holland

Water control facility

Water control facility

As we come into the Hook of Holland, we pass more sheep and some lighthouses.

Into the Hook of Holland

Into the Hook of Holland

Lighthouses

Lighthouses

We ride and ride and ride some more and finally catch a glimpse of the North Sea!

1 km from the beach

1 km from the beach!

We ride for another ten minutes and suddenly we are surrounded by beautiful sand dunes and a winding network of bike paths (this is the Netherlands after all!).

Sand dunes and bike paths

Sand dunes and bike paths

Around and over some dunes and we see the North Sea and the beach!!!!!!!!!

Dipping our toes in the North Sea

Dipping our toes in the North Sea

We did it!

We did it!

Ha! I did it!

Ha! I did it!

The North Sea at the Rhine Delta

The North Sea at the Rhine Delta

1,124 km

1,124 km

Wet and happy, glowing with accomplishment, we rode back into Hook of Holland and found a hotel. The first B&B we tried was booked, but we found a room at the Grand Hotel.

Grand Hotel Hook of Holland

Grand Hotel Hook of Holland

Source to Sea!

Source to Sea!

They did it

They did it

After checking in and clowning around in our room, we walked to an Italian restaurant down the street for dinner.

A well-earned dinner

A well-earned dinner

Jette's calloused hands

Jette’s calloused hands

We did it!

What a river. What a ride. What an experience… There is so much that we have seen, so much that we have learned, and so much that we have enjoyed on this journey.

Day 22: Arnhem to Rhenen

We rode 49.76 km from Arnhem to Rhenen.

I woke up early. Mila and Jette were still asleep, so I walked to the little grocery store across the street to get some things for our breakfast. The streets were still wet, but the rain had stopped. It was cool, maybe 11 or 12 degrees celsius (low 50’s) and the morning commuters were riding by on their bicycles in coats and scarves. I was in shorts and sandals, my typical riding outfit, and I got quite a few doubletakes and stares. Jette and I are both fairly cold tolerant and don’t like to get bundled up, especially when we are being active. On this trip we’ve marveled at how, to us, many Europeans appear to be overdressed. I suppose they dress for the morning temperatures or the worst case scenario, but when the day goes from 55 to 73 and they are still walking around in down jackets and scarves it is our turn to stop and stare!

Mila and Jette were awake when I got back and we had a quick breakfast of bread and fruit. We packed our bags and retrieved our bikes from the hotel basement. We were ready to roll.

Ready to leave Arnhem

Ready to leave Arnhem

I checked the map on my phone. There would be no trouble getting back on route this morning, as the hotel (the little yellow star on this map) was right on it. Off we went to the West.

We rode past the main train station, made a bit of a jog and were faced with a pretty big hill. That was a surprise! We didn’t think they had these in The Netherlands! We were about to be even more pleasantly surprised, as today’s ride turned out to be one of the prettiest and most surprising of the whole trip.

We were parallel the train tracks, and as we rode up, we left the center city and came into a more residential area. The leafy suburbs, if you will. It wasn’t long before we started seeing signs like this one.

Sign for Route LF4b

Sign for Route LF4b

The Netherlands has a national network of cross-country bicycle routes, and we’ll be following the East-West LF 4b route for this part of our trip. Of course we’re still following the EuroVelo 15 Route for the full length of the Rhine, but as one crosses from country to country the EV 15 “uses” various local, regional, or national routes, so the signs and route names change along the way. One universal is that the route is well marked, and I think it could be done quite easily without even the need for a map for navigation. It has been nice to have maps, but we’ve really needed them very little.

From the quiet streets of the pretty residential area, the route turns onto a bike path through some really beautiful forested parks.

Forested parks near Arnhem

Forested parks near Arnhem

It was a surprise and a bit surreal. It was so unexpected and so pretty that I almost got goosebumps. It was an experience that would be repeated a number of times today.

We wound around, up and down through the forests occasionally coming out into of getting little peeks of bright green meadows and fields, sometimes with sheep or cows or horses grazing. The photos don’t capture it, and I can’t put it into words, but it was a truly magical landscape. And the light. It was as if there was a different sun illuminating this world as the visible sunbeams came streaming through the forest canopy and through the clouds over the impossibly green fields.

Through the forests and by the meadows

Through the forests and by the meadows

Some photos that just don’t capture it:

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At one point we came out of the trees and ran along a huge, luxurious equestrian estate complete with modern buildings with impeccably thatched roofs. There were large, ornate gates to the property and two large signs with the Glock logo. We were totally confused. Glock is the Austrian arms manufacturer that popularized the polymer handgun and is one of the largest handgun producers in the world.

The Glock facilityThe Glock facility

glock

As we passed the gate and rode along beside the estate, we passed a security guard who didn’t look too friendly and perhaps the fanciest stables I’ve ever seen. There were other nice buildings and a number of luxury cars. We were perplexed. What does Glock have to do with horses? Later on I googled it, and found that Glock does indeed have an equestrian operation and this was indeed part of it. It tuns out the company also has in interesting history of embezzlement that includes an attempt on the founder’s life and a general history that reads like pulp fiction (or an old season of Dallas).

As we rode on, the route alternated between forest trails ended and quiet roads through pretty villages or residential areas.

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Stopping to snap photos of thatched roofs

Stopping to snap photos of thatched roofs

Lots of cute little houses with thatched roofs

Lots of cute little houses with thatched roofs

We left the residential area behind and rode through a large forested park or nature preserve on a small road. There were lots of trails and people out walking, many of them with dogs. Somewhere along here we missed a sign and go way off route. We realized our mistake and backtracked. The sign we missed was for a turn at the bottom of a long, fast downhill and it was immediately apparent why we missed it. It was facing the wrong way! Anyway we were back on track with a few extra kilometers on the odometer.

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At times we could see the green fields and dykes on the edge of the forest.

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In the village of Heelsum we stopped for lunch at Mamajona cafe.

Map of Heelsum

Mamajona cafe

Mamajona cafe

Salad

Salad

Sandwiches at Mamajona

Sandwiches at Mamajona

We rode on and as we came to the edge of the village we heard planes passing low overhead. I looked up and there were two old biplanes. There were more planes int he sky ahead and suddenly parachutes too. A little further on the route switched from a street to a path though a large field. Except we could barely see the path – it was crowded with people.

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Clearly we had stumbled upon one of the events associated with the commemoration of the Battle of Arnhem. As if on cue, more planes passed over and streaming out of them came more airborne troops with the old, round military parachutes of WWII.

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We watched the parachutists and then made our way through the crowd. Back on quiet streets we passed through another very pretty residential area on the edge of forests and fields.

Passing through another pretty residential area

Passing through another pretty residential area

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We left the quiet streets and turned onto a smooth, wide bike path that skirted the edge of the forest and the fields.

Coming out into the fields

Coming out into the fields

On the edge of the forest and fields

On the edge of the forest and fields

It wasn’t long before the path moved up to the top of a dyke, with fields on our left and houses on our right.

Up onto the dyke

Up onto the dyke

Mila and the sheep

Mila and the sheep

Past happy, grazing sheep

Past happy, grazing sheep

We were getting tired and the sky was looking ominous. According to Google Maps, there were no good camping options nearby. There appeared to be two hotels in Rhenen, so we decided that would be our stopping point for the day. We rolled into town and found the first hotel. It was closed and empty. Thankfully the second hotel was still in business and had a room available. Before we had even unpacked our bikes, the sky got dark and it started pouring rain.

Hotel bicycle parking

Hotel bicycle parking

Hotel bike room

Bikes safely tucked away, we had a nice bath and dinner then called it a night. It had been a beautiful day with beautiful scenery. The photos really don’t capture the magic and the beauty of the varied landscapes we saw today, the tiny wildflowers hiding in the fields, and the quality of the light. Today was a good day.

Day 20: Cologne to Arnhem

Today we took a train and rode 6.26 km.

We awoke to rain and wind. We enjoyed a nice buffet breakfast at our over-priced hotel, packed our bags, left them with the front desk, and headed to the Cologne Cathedral for some sightseeing.

Ready to see some sights

Ready to see some sights

At the cathedral there was a service in progress and Mila and I didn’t take many pictures. It is an amazing work of architecture, but some of its impact was dampened by the fact that our experience at the Strasbourg Cathedral was still so fresh in our minds. Also, because there was a service taking place, we could really only “peek” into the interior.

Jette and Waco at the Koln Cathedral

Jette and Waco pretending to be kites in the wind at the Koln Cathedral

In getting to the cathedral, Jette’s purple poncho was almost instantly soaked through. The cool temperature, wind, and rain made it very clear that long days in the saddle were not feasible for us when it was rainy. So, we stood in a sheltered doorway of the cathedral and discussed our next steps. Last night we talked about taking the train to Dusseldorf or Duisburg, but it was quickly dawning on us that we were really running out of time. We decided to skip the industrial part of Germany and take the train to Arnhem, which was about 150 km from our final destination, the North Sea.  With the daily distances we were averaging, this would give us a good chance of finishing the route by bike. Anything short of that and we risked not being able to finish by bike in the time we had left. Also, since the weather forecast for the next couple days was rain, we figured it was better to make a “rain day” a “train day” and jump on a train now rather than later.

Looking at the train station fom the cathedral

Looking at the train station from the cathedral

So, Jette and I ran through the rain to the train station and bought tickets to Arnhem.

In the train station

In the train station with the cathedral in the backbround

We tickets in hand, we rode back to the hotel, picked up our bags, packed the bikes, and rode back to the train station. It was another day of bikes on trains and doing the “train dance.”

At the Koln Station

At the Koln Station

On the first train of the day

On the first train of the day

Our bikes and another on the train

Our bikes and another on the train

My bike and trailer with wheels removed

My bike and trailer with wheels removed

There were multiple trains and transfers and thankfully in each case we were able to roll the loaded bikes onto the trains instead of having to unload the bike and shuttle bags and bikes separately.

We were on local commuter trains, not regional express trains and we seemed to have hit one of them at the same time that the local high school kids were going home. They pushed onto the train before we could get the bikes on and took up all the space in the designated “bicycle car.” We had to cram ourselves and the bikes into the entry vestibule of the train car, which made it virtually impossible for other people to get in an out. We spent a couple of hours standing crammed in, holding our bikes up in the entry way. Each time the train stopped and the people in the bike area exited the “bike area” of the train others filled in before we could move our bikes. Countless people cursed us for blocking the entry/exit, but ironically, they were the same people who sat in the designated bike area! Culturally, this situation stumped us. Everyone’s lives would have been easier if those knuckleheads would have just let us “park” our bikes properly on the train! We just couldn’t understand it!!!

We made it to Arnhem and with more rain forecast, checked into a hotel near the train station. As it turned out, just like “The Expo” in Cologne there was a big event in town and many of the hotels were booked. Who knew?! Luckily the Best Western adjacent to the train station had one room available…

The Safari Room!

The Safari Room!

Hilarious, I know. We seem to be a magnet for “themed” hotel rooms. We are animal lovers. Go figure.

The event in town was the 71st Anniversary of the Battle of Arnhem.  The town was full of soldiers – young, active duty ones, and old originals.

The hotel let us park our bikes in the basement with the employee bikes. Parked, unpacked and cleaned-up we found a nearby cafe for a nice dinner and called it a day.

Meem - the cute cafe

Meem – the cute cafe

Goodnight.